I went from stock disc, pp, and flywheel with a 100k miles on it, never been changed. The point I could change without any grinding (and not matching revs) was about halfway to the floor (3.5"). Any farther didn't make any difference. Stop was set to about 5.5" from the floor. Other than the clutch being badly worn (almost down to rivets), clutch dis/engaged fine for DD. Anytime boost hit, it would just slip slip slip.

In my build, I upgraded with the following: ss line (eliminated accumulator), southbend disc, act 2600 pp, and act flywheel. I didn't think of the engagement point at all when I made the changes because the worn stock components were gripping fine. However, fully assembled, back in the car, and adjusted as per Jack's how-to video - backed out the stop as far as it could (6.25" from floor) and then turned the actuator rod until the slave couldn't bleed back then backed it off half a turn. Free-play at this point was a very small twitch at the top of the peddle, the rest of the stroke all seemed to be moving fluid, same stiffness throughout the entire stroke...when it actually disengages, less than an inch off the floor, there is no apparent difference in the stiffness of the peddle.

When I replaced the main three, I did NOT replace the fork or pivot. Nor did I shim the pivot ball. Mainly my reasoning was "engagement point was well well off the floor, everything would seem to be in check".

Unfortunately, I ran out of time to rebleed the system, but the stiffness in the peddle doesn't really seem to indicate that there is air being compressed. The other unfortunate thing is I'm an hour away from my car (building it on my parents farm...nice garage) so it will be another week before I can personally visit it. I was able to get my dad to take a picture of the fork where it comes through the boot to see how far from center it is. (I'll post the picture once it comes in)

The other things to note is the rod was turned in farther than it was setup from stock. And when I was bleeding, I put on a one way valve and a length of tubing, loosened off the bleeder valve then slowly put the clutch up and down while making sure the reservoir was always full. That was my bleeding process...

Is there a possibility that I have air in my slave cylinder that I wouldn't be able to feel through the pedal? Pumping the clutch doesn't seem to change the engagement point.

To go from a non-full stroke distance of 3.5" from the floor to less than an inch, is something else going on here?

In short, I replaced:
clutch
flywheel
pp
line from master to slave
TOB

I didn't replace:
fork
pivot ball
master
slave