Missed my edit window:

I'm also fairly certain it did bleed correctly the first go around because when I was adjusting the master rod and blocked off the bleeder valve, I could not depress the slave cylinder at all; if there was air in the line or slave, it would have compressed a lil then stopped... akin to how the peddle would have felt. At least, that is how I would imagine it...If you can push on the slave to move a column of brake fluid, you could compress a lil air.

Oh, guess I'll mention too the slave cylinder is not OEM, it was a Parts Source special because my stock one blew up in -30C...that was the most "fun" I ever had...changing a slave cylinder in the dead of winter lying on a patch of ice... It is about 1.5 years old with 6000miles on it.

Is this going to end up shimming it, or will simply replacing the fork and pivot ball be enough?

Also, is there any way to take on just the pivot ball while the transmission is mounted? can you sneak in a deep socket and a thin head ratchet behind the fork to operate on it? or a long wrench with patience?

In addition, because components are wearing and the entire fork and TOB is slowly backing away from the pp, would it be possible to find the perfect length of slave cylinder rod extension that I'm not preloading the system? I can get an extended rod then I have a lathe at the parent's farm that I can turn it down to the exact length I need without preloading/touching. The reason I'm getting to this is because I'm looking to get a Jack's tranny rebuild in the winter and this will only have to last me until then. If I find a winter beater, it will just be for few more months.

One more question, is the ratio between the slave cylinder and the master cylinder the same? ie, 1" of travel on the master = 1" of travel on the slave?

edit: Ghis, when replacing the fork and pivot with new oem, will you still need to shim?