Finally got the time to add my tidbit on doing this job.

When moving the fusebox, you will find you may need to adjust distances of wire or you may even want to completely rerun stuff. What I did was completely dismantle the harness and start essentially from scratch.

Here is what I did:




I decided to relocate my fusebox to the center console. I also decided that it was really silly to run the wire across the front with the new location. The route I decided on was all the wires run to the firewall, then split off towards each side of the car. The passenger side would further split to go through the inside grommet to the battery/alternator, and out the passenger grommet to the right headlight.

The first thing I did was remove all the ground wire splices. When examining the harness, you had somethings that were grounded on the other side of the engine bay, even though there was a ground point close to the location. Since nothing is timing based (like digital circuits) the length of the ground doesn't need to be equal length, nor is much consequence. Needless to say, I was able to eliminate a good chunk of grounding wire just by choosing better ground points. Cutting the grounding splices will also make the entire harness just so much easier to work with (untangling, running straight, etc...).

The second thing was to relocate the lighting wire splices. The headlights are connected through each other at the front of the car, my new route would no longer use this so I made the split at the firewall where the two headlights parted ways.

The third step was using pieces of string to locate distances. I ran three strings for each path. Fusebox to driver headlight, fusebox to passenger headlight, and fusebox to battery/alt. I taped and marked out on the strings where everything was so. I then laid out the string on the floor and started extending and trimming wires as needed. The grounds I extended to each headlight on the respective sides, to be roughly in the position they needed to be. Once the harness was put into place, I finished up the grounds.

finished product:


You can roughly see where the firewall split is and the small take off of where the the harness goes to the battery.

*bows head*

Amazing write up. Thanks so much.

Good info, I'm really considering doing this to go along with my built 6 bolt, might as well go all the way with it.

10 sec show car status? Yes please!

As much as I hated doing it, it cleans the bay up so much!

And as much as I hate to say it, I think it is better than stock Kept the same gauge wire for quite a few things and was able to actually shorten the lengths - headlights primarily.

Additionally, if you add any power consuming things under the hood, you can plan it into the harness. I know that I'm going to an external oil cooler with a fan, so I ran a +12v wire and ground for the fan through the fusebox, so I now also have a neat and tidy fuse for it

this is far too tedious for me but amazing work anthony!

So ya like wire tucks, do ya?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/app...wire-tuck-98-mitsubishi-eclipse-gsx.html

One of the cleanest I've ever seen.

Side note on wiring, this guy has done some amazing stuff! Total build. I really like the massive plug going through the firewall.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm...rust-bucket-resto-mod-wire-tuck-etc.html

BlurredTalon is Anthony Hiscock from here.


Edit: who started this thread.

I keep this pic on my desktop as motivation for my bay.

race cars are covered in oil, so that is a show car, and that is lame.

A properly maintained race car shouldn't be leaking any oil.