Mods, please sticky this. Everyone else, feel free to add to it - I'm sure I missed something while rushing through this.

Things to do to your car before Track
- Make sure your car is in GOOD working order (see checklist in post below). I should not need to highlight what problems are specific to DSMs in general or to each individuals car - you should know!
- Check Fluid levels (Engine, Transmission, Brake, Steering, windshield wiper, coolant)
- Make sure Engine/Transmission/Brake fluids are fresh
- Inflate to your preference of Tire PSI (I will get into this more later)
- Check Brake pads to see if you have enough material (I highly recommend stepping up to at least a Hawk HPS or better yet, HP+ as these will be adequate for any beginner/intermediate driver)
- Make sure your tires are balanced
- Rotors are in good working order (A good set of rotors is as important as a good set of pads - vented/slotted is great, just don't go cross-drilled unless you're buying high end, as the cheap cross-drilled rotors will crack)
- Wheel Nuts are torqued correctly (And check them in the pit every time after you come off the track - your studs will stretch A LOT the first time the car is put through its paces on a track)
- Remove all unnecessary items (leave them at home or on the sidelines)
- Proper alignment
- Arrive at the track with a FULL tank of gas because you WILL use it all, especially in a DSM

Things to do at Track
- Check tire pressure, fluids after runs (again, will get more into tires later - they are a whole different beast)
- Do NOT engage the parking brake after runs (this can and will warp your rotors as they will cool unevenly - bring wheel chocks if desired
- Let the engine run for a few minutes after returning from your cool down lap to the paddock and make sure you pop your hood
- Stay calm no matter what; you're there to have fun, not win an F1 championship
- Remember to do warm up and cool down lap(s)
- If you see anything unsafe or something that you're unsure about, point it our and/or ask the appropriate people

Things to Bring to Track
- An approved HELMET in good condition
- A jack and possibly jackstands (especially if swapping tires)
- Tools, tools, tools (handtools, a ratchet set, etc.)
- Torque wrench and break bar or cordless impact gun (the impact gun is a godsend)
- Extra fluids
- Bring a Jacket/Umbrella (depending on weather)
- Water/Drinks (non-alcoholic, of course)
- Food (if not provided)
- Jerry can FULL of gas, so that even if you run out at the track, you've got something to get you to a gas station.
- CAA Card (hopefully no one needs to use this, but it's nice to have)

Things to do/watch out for after track
- Reset your tire PSI back to street levels
- Watch out for glazing brake pads (OEM pads WILL glaze - Glaze should be gone after some regular driving
- Check fluid levels. Depending on how fresh your fluids were before track, you may want to change them
- Rotate tires if needed















Here's an inspection checklist from the SOLO Sprint guys:

PLEASE CHECK OFF (
) ALL ITEMS INSPECTED AND IN SATISFACTORY CONDITION.
INDICATE WITH AN (X) IF NOT INSPECTED OR NOT IN GOOD CONDITION and REPLACE or REPAIR.
SoloSprint Annual Inspection Checklist
(Appendix B of Entry Form)

1. BRAKES: VERY IMPORTANT!
( ) Friction Materials: pads, shoes; >50% material,
in good condition
( ) Calipers: no leaks, operating freely, attachment hardware OK
( ) Steel lines: fittings, attachments, no apparent corrosion
( ) Flexible lines: no apparent cracks, fittings in good condition
( ) Brake fluid: was changed with in the last 6 months
( ) 15 second static brake test: pedal firm with no loss of
pressure

2. STEERING & SUSPENSION
( ) Ball joints or swivel point: within wear specifications, grease
seals intact, attachment secure
( ) Idler arm, pitman arm, links and tie rod or link ends: within
the wear limit, secure attachment, seals intact
( ) Bearings: hubs properly adjusted with no excess play or wear,
cotter pins or locking devices where required
( ) General condition of system: springs, shocks, bushings frame
attachments, anti sway bar mounting, etc.

3. TIRES AND WHEELS (MUST BE WHEELS AND TIRES USED
FOR COMPETITION)
( ) Wheels: in good condition with no apparent cracks, good
valves
( ) All studs or nuts: present and in good condition, with
sufficient threading and length for safe attachment
( ) Tires: no cord showing, no cuts, no interference with body or
fender through reasonable range of motion

4. DRIVELINE
( ) Transmission: no apparent leaks, cracks or missing fasteners
( ) Driveshaft(s), u joints, cv joints: no excess wear, grease seals
intact
( ) Rear axle, final drive: no apparent leaking, seals intact, no
cracks in unit, axle end play within specifications

5. FUEL SYSTEM
( ) Gas tank or fuel cell: no leaks, attachment secure, cap present
( ) Fuel lines: in good condition, no leaks or excessive corrosion
( ) Fuel filter(s): clamps on flex hose, no cracks or leaks
( ) Fuel delivery line (to carburetor or fi systems): no leaking,
safe routing (multiple carbs)
( ) Carburetor, fuel injection systems, injectors: no apparent
leaks

6. OTHER
( ) Battery: securely mounted; no movement
( ) Hood latching mechanism and lock: in good working order
( ) Floor pan and body panels: no rust perforation or apparent
loss of integrity, no loose, jagged or missing parts
( ) Brake light: operational
( ) Engine: no apparent major oil leaks
( ) Exhaust system: no leaks to passenger compartment, safe
exit from under body

7. SAFETY EQUIPMENT
( ) OEM 3 point seatbelt assembly, properly attached
( ) Aftermarket seatbelt/harness, properly attached, min.
Grade 5 fasteners
( ) Roll bar/cage (if applicable): Securely mounted and padded
where necessary
( ) Fire extinguisher: securely mounted and fully charged (if
present)
( ) Window net: secure (if applicable)
( ) Helmet in good condition