Originally Posted by Ali Ghadban
It's not hard to change the cv boot yourself. Just make sure there is no play in the axle by rotating the joint back and forth.


I will examine that option. I just watched Eric the Car Guy ignoring his just let it fail idea.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0

Originally Posted by Ali Ghadban
Chuck, I usually just unbolt the upper control arms from the strut towers and pull them down, remove the strut fork bolt, unclip the brake line and bend the whole assembly outwards. That will allow you to slide the axle out of the hub.

No need to mess with the ball joints or lower control arm bolts.



That will be option #3. The lower control arm method was easy peasy. 2 bolts. Again, the room needed to break bolts loose is not there with the upper control arm.

Eventually though, I want to take the whole assembly out to clean and paint.

Originally Posted by Jason Drew
Little trick with the impact is not to just keep it in reverse, alternate back and forth quickly between forward and reverse, quite often it'll loosen the corrosion just enough to break it free.

I guess it also depends which electric impact you have, I know CT has 2 sizes, the smaller one isn't very powerful.


This one is the Halo sized digital one. But I just realized I hadn't changed the torque setting from when I put the wheels on. so I think it's set at 100flbs

[Linked Image]

And of course, now I look online for specs and find this recall >.<
http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2012/15958r-eng.php

Last edited by Charles Lavoie; July 29, 2015 04:13 pm UTC.
98,6Bolt,3"EXH,LINKV3,780cc,SD,SCM61@26PSI, 340LPH,AFPR,TSBOV,REARWB,FMIC,2"RAD(20/80/WW)