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Originally Posted by Jeremy Gilbert
Either way, glad you sorted your problem.


Actually i did not. With crank half a tooth off as show on the image above she still ran like a Subaru and low vacuum. It was frustrating as i really had my hopes up.

So with "old" alignment as shown above the TDC screwdriver method revealed that the piston one was slightly off the TDC point when crank was slightly off the timing mark as show above.

I took out the belt & started from the beginning again. This time i did not use the plastic insert. Instead, i zip tied t-belt around intake cam first, rotated crank to line up to timing mark, then i rotated intake counter clockwise slightly off 9 o'clock mark so t-belt teeth could engage perfectly with the crank. At first it looked like the cam gear is off (around 8:30) but ignored that and aligned & zip tied exhaust cam and then finished tensioning the t-belt.

To my surprise here is the new alignment:

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Originally Posted by Reza Mirza
You can even start the car at this point with just the timing belt on and no other belt, accessories or covers. Just don't do it for long as the water pump isn't spinning wink


^ that saved me a ton of time, thank you!

Originally Posted by Jeremy Gilbert
Now get that Mobil 1 out of your engine, put some conventional back in, and GO BREAK HER IN!!


^ Synthetic has been flushed out and refilled with conventional oil. I'll keep it there for next 1000 km smile

I took her out for a drive and immediately notice more low end torque and more power at WOT. Roughly around 20-30%. She felt much more responsive and vacuum at idle was -19/-20.

Now (900rpm):



Before (1100rpm):



Originally Posted by Jeremy Gilbert
It's because the portion of the belt between the cams and crank on the idler side is not tensioned when you put it on, and when you tension it, it pulls them out of line.


^ that's the key right there and solution to my problem.
Thanks again Jeremy tu


1996 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1999 Eclipse GST Automagic
1991 3000GT VR-4